MEET THE SOUS CHEF
FRANK ANDERSON, CHEF DE CUISINE, SON OF A GUN
Frank Anderson has cooked alongside Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook since the early days, long before the duo opened Los Angeles’s Animal, later followed by Son of a Gun, where Anderson is now chef de cuisine.
“The three of us are still as close as ever,” says Anderson, “but thankfully we don’t live together anymore.” Anderson grew up on a farm in Maine, and when thinking about what dishes to add to Son of a Gun’s menu, he often returns to food he ate as a kid, such as the recipe he shared with us for creamy tomato soup.
TRACK THIS CHEF
DAY IN THE LIFE
Wherever You Grow
Anderson lives in downtown Los Angeles in a rooftop apartment with a patio, where he grows vegetables. Raised on a farm, he relishes the opportunity to be outdoors, even in the heart of the city.
TIPS & TECHNIQUES
Anderson favors the classic tomato soup accompaniment: a grilled cheese sandwich. He likes to use French baguette for the bread, and prefers an assertive cheese such as Drunken Goat, a Spanish goat’s-milk cheese that has been cured with red wine.
To give his tomato soup maximum flavor, Anderson roasts the tomatoes and mirepoix, then combines them with tomato paste to deepen the flavor. He finishes the soup with crème fraîche to give it an especially silky texture.
2 servings (with leftover soup)
Medium carrots, 4 (roughly chopped)
Medium yellow onions, 2 (roughly chopped)
Medium leek, 1 (roughly chopped)
Tomatoes on the vine, 4 pounds (quartered, vine reserved)
Thyme sprigs, 8
Kosher salt, 1 tablespoon (plus more to taste)
Freshly ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon (plus more to taste)
Extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons
Water, 8 cups plus 3 tablespoons, divided
Tomato paste, one 6-ounce can
Crème fraîche, ¼ cup (plus extra for serving)
1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Into the bowl of a food processor, add the:
- Chopped carrots
- Chopped onions
- Chopped leek
Process until roughly ground, about five 1-second pulses. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a 4-quart pot. Use the rubber spatula to scrape the mixture into the sieve and press down on it to extract as much liquid as possible. Add the tomato vine to the pot and set aside.
2. Turn the ground vegetables out onto a rimmed baking sheet, spread into an even layer. On another rimmed sheet pan, place the:
- Tomato quarters
- Thyme sprigs
Arrange the tomatoes cut-side up and sprinkle with:
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Extra-virgin olive oil
Add both baking sheets to the oven. Roast the tomatoes until they begin to collapse, about 25 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and set aside.
3. Rotate the pan with the ground vegetables and continue roasting until the tops are browned, about another 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and scrape the roasted vegetables into the pot with the vegetable liquid and tomato vine (set the pan aside). Add:
- 8 cups water
Start bringing the water to a boil over high heat.
4. Set the sheet pan used to roast the vegetables over a medium burner and add the:
- Tomato paste
Cook until the tomato paste darkens, about 45 seconds, then add the remaining:
- 3 tablespoons water
Use the wooden spoon to stir and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add this mixture to the pot with the vegetables, tomato vine and water. Once the water has come to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the stock tastes full-flavored, about 40 minutes. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl and strain the stock. Clean the pot and pour the strained stock back into it.
5. Meanwhile, heat the broiler to high and cook the tomatoes under the broiler until they are nearly black on top, about 5 minutes.
Discard the thyme sprigs.
6. Scrape the roasted tomatoes into the pot with the strained stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the tomatoes collapse completely, about 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and cool 10 minutes before blending in batches or use an immersion blender to purée the soup. Once the soup is smooth, add:
- ¼ cup crème fraîche
Blend again and add more salt and pepper if needed. Divide into 2 bowls and serve with a dollop of crème fraîche.